Along the basaltpipes of the seacliff areas,
the use of nuts and friends is common, and, quite easy, but does not give
perfect protection, especially for repels and belays where bolts are needed.
Oliver climbing the rock face just off "Doca do Cavacas" - near Praia Formosa in Funchal
The introduction of the bolt, most useful for
advanced climbing under safe conditions on Madeira, has found its limits with
another group of people around the climber
Dantes, who is strictly against the use of it.
The pilosophy of leaving the rock after
climbing in its natural state, has come up in the alps during the seventies but
must be carefully considered depending on the area and the rock quality! At
least, some solid points would always give a necessary minimum of safety !
But with only self-protection by nuts and
friends during climbs (which demand a high experience in their safe use) this
sport will remain strictly for experts only (or those few who frequently join
them) and not allow others to get in touch with it. The risks on the rocks are
still too high for beginners of this sport on the island.
Climbing the rock face at "Doca do Cavacas" - near Praia Formosa beach in Funchal
Therefore many interesting places remain
unequipped because they can only be protected with bolts and nobody wants to
find his work crashed a week later, or, has the money and time needed to start
While the first remaining spits on the
seacliffs, exposed to saltwater, are already covered with rost, no alternative
solution to prepare a beginners climbing area, has shown up, so far.