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Things to do : Sports : Rock Climbing Last Updated: Jun 28, 2008 - 12:29:23 AM


Madeira on the Rocks...
By Oliver R. Donald Guenay
Jun 5, 2008 - 11:34:55 AM


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Along the basaltpipes of the seacliff areas, the use of nuts and friends is common, and, quite easy, but does not give perfect protection, especially for repels and belays where bolts are needed.

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Oliver climbing the rock face just off "Doca do Cavacas" - near Praia Formosa in Funchal


The introduction of the bolt, most useful for advanced climbing under safe conditions on Madeira, has found its limits with another group of people around the climber Ruiz Dantes, who is strictly against the use of it.

The pilosophy of leaving the rock after climbing in its natural state, has come up in the alps during the seventies but must be carefully considered depending on the area and the rock quality! At least, some solid points would always give a necessary minimum of safety !

But with only self-protection by nuts and friends during climbs (which demand a high experience in their safe use) this sport will remain strictly for experts only (or those few who frequently join them) and not allow others to get in touch with it. The risks on the rocks are still too high for beginners of this sport on the island.

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Climbing the rock face at "Doca do Cavacas" - near Praia Formosa beach in Funchal

Therefore many interesting places remain unequipped because they can only be protected with bolts and nobody wants to find his work crashed a week later, or, has the money and time needed to start it seriously!

While the first remaining spits on the seacliffs, exposed to saltwater, are already covered with rost, no alternative solution to prepare a beginners climbing area, has shown up, so far.

 

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